20 Dolly Kei Must-Haves

I keep seeing "must-have" lists on different blogs covering an array of different styles, and I always enjoy them! So, I decided to put together one for Dolly :)

So, in no particular order, here are my "20 Dolly Kei Must-Haves":

1)A solid colour, knee-length dress you can layer over things and layer under things.

2)A detachable collar/oddfellows collar. Such an easy way to add layers and that "antique" detail.

3)A long beaded necklace.

4)An interesting, out of the ordinary purse or bag.

5)Patterned and/or lace tights.

6)Scarves. You can wear them traditionally, tie them in your hair, tie them to your purse, or wear them as a belt or shawl. So many uses!

7)A cross/religious icon necklace.

8)Flower hair pieces. Large or small, these are easy to wear and can really complete an outfit.

9)Knee socks

10)A simple, solid-colour or muted pattern skirt, again for easy under or over layering.

11)A simple blouse, short or long-sleeved, for easy layering.

12)A thick belt in neutral tones, brown or black etc.

13)Cameos. Easy to wear, and an easy way to add antique detailing, whether it be a brooch, ring or necklace.

14)Brooches. These have so many uses! You can use them traditionally, add them to a hair piece, to your purse, use them to alter the shape of a skirt or dress hem, pin them to a necklace! Completely versatile!

15)Simple flats/mary janes in a neutral colour. Easy to match, easy to wear.

16)Some sort of lace-up shoe or boot. Be it oxford-style or Victorian bootie, a vintage looking lace-up shoe will always work.

17)A headband with a bow. Again, just so easy to wear!

18)A "fur" item. It doesn't have to be real of course, and can be something as simple as a fur collar or tail, to something as attention grabbing as a stole or vest.

19)A tassel necklace or belt.

20)A vest/waistcoat or dirndl. Again, an easy way to add layers without even thinking about it.

So there we have it. Please keep in mind this is just my list, and they're just suggestions of items that in my experience, will allow for a lot of options and are great starting points for anyone new to the fashion. I'm not claiming to be an official expert :)

If you have any suggestions, please e-mail them to: DollyMacabre@gmail.com


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Dolly Kei for the Summer

It's getting warmer out. Soon it's going to be REALLY warm. And a style that involves such a commitment to layers like Dolly does, can be a little difficult to simplify, let alone make summer-suitable. But, it can be done! You're just going to have to re-think your layers, and what constitutes your layers.

*Firstly, say toodles to your tights. Or at the very least, bid adieu to your thick, patterned, textured tights. Instead go bare-legged, or say hello to the wonderful world of lace tights. A loose-knit lace tight is almost the same as a bare leg.




Depending on your outfit, you could also consider a fishnet as well. You could also opt for ankle, knee, or over-the-knee socks. I personally think ankle socks are a really cute look for summer.

*Let go of your layers. Keep it simple when it comes to your actual garments of clothing. Choose lighter and more breathable "summer friendly" fabrics like cotton. Choose a single dress or shirt/skirt combination and just don't add anything else to it garment-wise. One shirt, one dress, no cardigans, no sweaters, no heavy shawls, no capelettes. If you really feel the need for another layer, opt instead for things like a loose crotchet shawl, lace vest or a longer light fabric scarf you can remove easily if you get too warm.







So long as the cut/shape of your outfit fits the dolly silhouette, and the style/embellishments are there, you can still put together a dolly coordinate using less.






Mai is a really good example to look to when it comes to keeping garments simple and working with one layer.

*There's been a trend in Dolly the last little, of incorporating printed tops. You can easily do this for summer by doing this with a t-shirt. Band t's, lolita cutsews, experiment!






*Consider taking your hemline on the shorter side. The hemline rules that dominate lolita are not present with Dolly, so why not? That said, if you're not comfortable with that, consider maxi-length (super long) skirts and dresses in cotton as well. Maxi dresses and skirts are actually really cool in summer. And there's any number of style and lengths available in most stores now in great prints!

Another option is something you don't see often with Dolly, but that can definitely work. Vintage style shorts, harem pants, knicker-style pants paired with things like vintage sandals, ankle socks, tassel belts and suspenders are all workable options (I'll actually be covering pants/shorts with Dolly Kei in the next couple weeks).




*Use your accessories to add more layers. Wear multiple necklaces, brooches etc. to keep the layered feel while wearing less clothing. I also think the summer is a good time to experiment! Go a little more extravagant and avante garde with your accessories since your clothing will be so much simpler. Feather earrings, crazy hair pieces, tassel belts, maybe try a more "out-there" purse. All easy ways to add more layers, details and interest without adding more warmth.










Instead of wearing fur stoles, collars etc., add fur accessories like a tail to your purse or bag.




A single oddfellows collar won't add much warmth or weight, so I think they're an item that will carry though summer and add the distinct dolly feel to your outfit.




*Your shoes. I love Victorian-inspired booties and oxfords as much as the next person, but they just aren't the most comfortable thing in summer. Look instead to vintage-inspired sandals, bohemian wedges, peep-toes and cute flats. A lot of people would argue to not wear socks with sandals, but like I said before: cute ankle socks with vintage (or vintage look sandals) look very cute and very dolly.



















Another thing you can add to make your shoes (and possible lack of socks and tights) more interesting, are "ballet socks", which can add such a cute point of interest.





You could also add things like bows, flowers or vintage shoe clips.

*Hair. Summer is a great time for up-dos, so experiment with braids and buns, anything that will keep the hair off of your neck.

To summarize, it's going to be easier and cooler to put the focus on your accessories, and keep your clothing light and simple. I'm not saying be boring, I'm not saying to wear summer colours or summer trends. But let your accessories do the talking and carry the dolly "feel" for your outfits in the summer months :)

*Gentlemen! I haven't forgotten about you here! Like the ladies, opt out of many layers and simplify with fabrics like cottons and linens. Over-sized cotton button-downs and tailored linen shorts can go a long way with the right accessories and a great bag. Suspenders and an oddfellows collar is also a super easy way to add layers without warmth. I know a lot of guys don't like sandals, so maybe loafers or oxfords with ankle socks or sockless could substitute :)

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Finding your own style within Dolly Kei

The fastest way for a style to get stale and boring, is when everyone starts looking the same. Dolly Kei may be fairly new, but it runs the risk just as any fashion does.

Everyone admires the coords of the Grimoire staff, and it's very easy to want emulate them, wear what they wear, and style yourself accordingly. But when you look at Hitomi, Kaori and Heri, do you notice how differently they each wear the style? Hitomi with her elegance, Kaori looking like little prairie doll lately, and Heri with her layers and layers. All Dolly Kei, all very different. Not to say that one shouldn't look to them for inspiration, incorporate a bit of their style or follow any Dolly trends. I just think it's very important to find your own style, and to let your own personality shine through.

Some hopefully helpful suggestions:

~Other styles: I personally like to have a bit of Lolita in my outfits.
~Make your own accessories. No one else will have your pieces.
~Have style icons outside of Dolly. Mine are silent film starlets, 90s Courtney Love, Amanda Palmer, Helena Bonham Carter and Florence Welch.
~Don't be afraid to experiment. You might not always love the outcome, but you might create something amazing.
~Take concrit and suggestions to your coords with a grain of salt. Dolly Kei has very little in the way of rules, if you love it and it's you, it's not wrong.
~Don't feel like you need 100 layers for your outfit to be considered Dolly. Layers are a part of it certainly, but it's not the end all be all. Note that Hitomi's coord posts lately haven't had a whole lot of layering and instead have really been relying on one amazing dress or piece.
~Wear something unexpected.
~Don't worry about everything matching. Maybe your hair piece doesn't go with your skirt. So what?
~Your hair and make-up: again, there's no real rules for this. Some styles are definitely popular, but you can do what you like.
~I watch a lot of fashion shows. I find that a lot of the time couture lines will be doing some interesting things I can incorporate.
~Think of how you would want to describe your look/the way you want your coords to "feel".
~Wear what makes you happy and what you're comfortable in. Don't wear something you don't like just because it's "Dolly".











From a personal perspective, I think my coords are visibly recognizable as Dolly Kei. But I also like to think that I've put my own personal mark on it. I'm wearing Dolly Kei, but i'm not wearing it like everyone else. I've got a little lolita going on, I use a very dark colour palette, I make my own accessories, and I go for very doll-like from my make-up and hair to my silhouette.

Certainly parts of the style are intrinsic and going to be seen through-out anyone's coord. And there are definite themes that are going to be prevalent. It is a fashion after all, and there are always going to be similarities. I'm just saying: take the style, make it uniquely your own.

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Dolly Kei Essentials: Silhouette and Colour Palette

I was writing up my "Essentials" about Layering, and realized that before I did that, it was probably a good idea to touch on some of the "basic basics" of Dolly Kei.

A lot of people throw Dolly Kei in with Lolita, Mori and newly, Otome. While Dolly Kei has some small similarities to these styles, it's not the same, and is extensively different and seperate.

So far as the silhouette of Dolly Kei, you'll notice there's a lot of flexablility with things like shape and hemline.


The hem can range from the very short to floor-length. Medium and floor-length seems to be the most common, but it's definitely "allowed" to go shorter (I myself, prefer knee-length or a little shorter).



The same can be said for "shape". Outfits can range from very bell-like (similar to the shape you'll see in lolita), a-line, to flowy and more streamlined. However, as flexible as all this is, avoid pencil skirts, and tight mini-skirts, really anything that is super "form-fitted", with the exception of your ights of course.


Pants are also an option, but noticably not as popular within the style. When pants are used in Dolly Kei, they tend to be almost knicker or bloomer-like (almost kodona-like), or harem -style.


The colour palette for Dolly kei tends to be dark, jewel tones, earthy, deep colours and subdued/muted colours. The colours can be vivid, but not what you would call "bright". You'll want to avoid florenscents and limit most pastels. THAT SAID: There are exceptions to every rule, and you will see some coords comprised solely of white/lighter colours/incorporation of pastels.


So there are some "basic basics" for you. I hope it proves helpful :) And as always, I'm up for any discussion, question and/or comments :)

(AND, I'm looking for some better pictures of pants in Dolly Kei. I'd appreciate any help in this matter :) )

Next installment: Layering!